Im Fong Liu
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Credit: Fuchsia Dunlop Invitation to a Banquet Penguin Books Ltd
Eating together with family and friends is always a special way to connect. This is certainly true for me as well. My love of cooking began in my mother’s kitchen. During village festivals in Hong Kong, my aunt and other women prepared large platters of classic dishes; cooking was elevated to an art here!
My travels to various provinces in China have shown me the rich variety of Cantonese and Sichuan cuisines, as well as the joy of food itself. As a foodie, I love watching cooking shows, and my favorite passages in books by authors such as Ken Hom, Roy Choi and, of course, Fuchsia Dunlop are all filled with Post-its.
Fuchsia Dunlop, multiple James Beard Award winner, adds a new gem to her impressive body of work with “Invitation to a Banquet: The Story of Chinese Food.” In this English-language book, she takes readers on a fascinating journey through China, focusing on historical, culinary and cultural aspects. Her lively writing style brings to life her personal adventures and deep interest in food culture and history.
Supple as seaweed
Dunlop’s work stands out for its visual language, which makes the textures and flavors of dishes almost tangible. For her, Chinese broccoli is “as shiny and supple as seaweed in a calm ocean,” while noodle makers knead, pull and slice the dough in an almost rhythmic, poetic text. Her vivid metaphors and sensory descriptions almost bring the dishes to life for the reader. She even adds a list of Chinese terms for “mouthfeel” and cooking techniques, highlighting the depth of her approach.
The book is divided into four sections: Hearth, Farm, Kitchen and Table. Each section offers a unique perspective on the rich traditions, from origins and history to techniques and philosophies that guide food preparation. In each chapter, Dunlop discusses classic dishes from specific provinces, such as Mapo tofu and dumplings, and places them in a broader context.
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Credit: Fuchsia Dunlop Invitation to a Banquet photo: Im Fong Liu
More than pots and pans
In addition to the sensory flair, Dunlop offers insights into Chinese cuisine from a philosophical and cultural perspective. She explores how the Western gaze often provides a limited view of this diverse cuisine and challenges the reader to reconsider underlying preconceptions. Her analysis of how these perceptions have influenced the appreciation of Chinese cuisine adds a deeper layer to the book. She also discusses how restaurants in Europe, the United States and the United Kingdom initially adapted to local taste preferences before daring to become more authentic. This also applies to the Netherlands, where Chinese-Indian restaurants are now officially intangible heritage.
Dunlop also describes that Chinese food has always been an affordable option. It was the first cuisine of eating out for many, and also the most economical option for a very long time. It is unfortunate that she does not address the question of why the public is not willing to pay more for Chinese food, while French and Italian cooking are paid dearly. I look forward to hearing her take on this cultural-economic phenomenon.
Missing ingredient
If I may make a side note, I would say that the book can feel a bit overloaded at times due to the many insights and historical contexts. In addition, the story ends in 2019, despite being published in 2023, which makes it seem like some of the recent events are left unsaid. The pandemic is touched on briefly, which may have been a deliberate choice. Still, I would have found it interesting if the impact of the pandemic and the rise of anti-Chinese sentiment, which may also have affected the prestige of Chinese cuisine, had been discussed in more detail. Since Fuchsia Dunlop is so closely associated with Chinese cuisine and community, a broader reflection would certainly have added even more value to this otherwise rich book.
A future-proof culinary philosophy
Dunlop’s vision of food emphasizes sustainability and making the most of ingredients. Her curiosity, respect and boldness resonate on every page, making for an impressive overview of the complexity of Chinese cuisine. While “Invitation to a Banquet” is not a cookbook, it definitely inspires one to try dishes for themselves and look at Chinese cuisine with fresh eyes. She invites the reader to develop deeper understanding of traditions, with room for critical reflection.
What Dunlop does masterfully is highlight the question of why French cuisine is considered the “best,” while Chinese cuisine, with its focus on technique and versatility, often remains underappreciated. The art of transforming ingredients into new textures and surprising flavors deserves greater international recognition.
What makes this book extra valuable, however, is Dunlop’s insight into how Chinese cuisine holds the secret to eating less meat without feeling like you’re missing out on anything. This makes it not only a culinary exploration, but also a source of inspiration for a more conscious and sustainable diet.
Conclusion
“Invitation to a Banquet” is a richly written book about an ancient food culture. For anyone who wants to delve into the diversity of this cuisine, it offers valuable insights. Whether you are a seasoned foodie or a curious beginner, Dunlop’s work will inspire you. I hope her next book will include recipes or modern variations on the dishes discussed so that we can enjoy these fascinating flavors at home as well.
Fuchsia Dunlop
Invitation to a Banquet: The Story of Chinese Food (English written)
ISBN 978-0-2415-1698-0
About the author:
Im Fong Liu is a freelance style editor for fashion, beauty and design, writing about fashion and design with a focus on culture. Because of her bicultural background, she has developed a broad perspective and an eye for detail, bringing stories to life in an engaging and visual way. As an aesthetic storyteller, she aims to inspire and offer new perspectives. Her work can be found at www.imfongliu.com.
