Cheongsam in all its glory

The Cheongsam in all its glory

by: Im Fong Liu

As the youngest daughter of Hong Kong immigrants in Holland, I have always been fascinated by their Hong Kong, a place where I never lived. This nostalgia was heightened by the old paintings in our house, above the Chinese-Indian restaurant they ran. And, of course, by the food, but that’s another story. My exploration into my parents’ heritage fueled my fascination with Hong Kong, and specifically the period of the 1960s, the time when my parents made the big move to Holland.

From Qizhuang to Cheongsam

Since the early 20th century, the look of the Cheongsam has moved with the times, like a true fashion chameleon. The Cheongsam, also known as Qipao (長衫 – romanized from the Cantonese word Chèuhngsāam, meaning long garment), is a Chinese dress inspired by the Qizhuang, the ethnic dress of the Manchu people. This iconic garment is more is than just a dress; the Cheongsam embraces cultural appreciation, has a deep connection to the past and symbolizes evolution, resilience and versatility.

Framework:

Cheongsam (長衫), also called Qipao, is derived from the Shanghainese term “zansae.

Classic features of this dress include a close-fitting silhouette with a stand-up collar and two side slits. The asymmetrical closure is very special with an eye-catching pankou, or frog closure. The pankou is a traditional knotted button.

Heritage: flashback to present day

The Cheongsam has undergone a transformation over the decades, evolving from the traditional Qizhuang of the Manchu people during the Qing Dynasty (1644 – 1912). This garment evolved from a long, loose-fitting robe worn by Manchu women, to the iconic close-fitting dress with side slits and high collar we know today.

This magnificent fashion journey through time can be divided into five episodes: the Manchu style, the Shanghai style, the Republican style, the Hong Kong Shanghai dress period and the modern style. The Manchu style was characterized by long, loose robes with high collars and wide sleeves, sometimes worn with an additional skirt form. The Shanghai style, from the Roaring Twenties of the last century, was more close-fitting and detailed, with decorative elements such as beads and lace. The Republican style was a simpler look and feel through the use of cotton. During the 1950-’60s, the Cheongsam had a renaissance with the Hong Kong Shanghai dress, a mix of traditional and modern influences. The modern style is covered later in this story.

Fashion and film: a timeless imagination

The Cheongsam is more than just a garment; it is a symbol of Chinese elegance and icon in pop culture. From the beautiful fashion illustrations of the 1920s to the iconic looks worn by actress Maggie Cheung in Wong Kar-Wai’s masterful film “In the Mood for Love” (2000). Don’t forget photographer Steven Meisel’s fashion series in Vogue Italia (2001) and Ang Lee’s film “Lust, Caution” (2007). There has also been an increased interest in expressing heritage in fashion on social media. All have contributed to a renewed appreciation for this garment.

In the 1960s, Chinese-Dutch designer Fong Leng also created a furor using the Cheongsam as inspiration. Her boutique, Studio Fong Leng, was a notable presence on Amsterdam’s P.C. Hooftstraat. Her flamboyant muse and style icon, Mathilde Willink, was among the many admirers of her creations.

Future: a modern intercultural interpretation

With the large Asian diaspora and the cultural revaluation of second and third generations outside Hong Kong and Asia, fashion has become a way to explore and express heritage. With a growing desire for modern interpretations of traditional garments and a growing appreciation of cultural heritage, the Cheongsam remains relevant in contemporary fashion.

Designers around the world, from Yves Saint-Laurent, Prada and Gucci, have paid homage in their collections by incorporating elements of the classic Cheongsam. Christian Dior creative director Maria Grazia Chiuri has also put a modern spin on the iconic dress in the 2024 Dior summer collection. This shows both the creativity of contemporary designers and the versatility of the Cheongsam.

framework:

Over the years, the Cheongsam has played many roles in Chinese culture. In Hong Kong, for example, it has been a part of the school uniform. In addition, the elegant dress is a favorite garment for festive occasions. In addition to the traditional white wedding dress, the bride often shines in a vibrant red Cheongsam during the tea ceremony. Even on other occasions, such as Chinese New Year, the Cheongsam always guarantees a stylish look.